Resveratrol 3% and Ferulic Acid 3%

Resveratrol 3% and Ferulic Acid 3%

by | 26 Jul, 2018 | Skin Care

[READ TIME: 1 MIN]

What They Have to Say

This formula combines very high concentrations of two of the most powerful and important antioxidants in skincare: Resveratrol and Ferulic Acid. Resveratrol is a natural phenol found in several plants and our pure source is 100% derived from Japanese Knotweed. Ferulic Acid is a high-potency phytochemical antioxidant found naturally in walls of plant cells.

The Ordinary

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Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% Ingredient Overview

This product is Water-Free, Fragrance-Free, Cruelty-Free, and Vegan.
$
Amt
$ / Oz
$7.90 1 oz $7.90
EWG Rating
pH
EWG score 1 N/A
Ingredients
Propanediol |
solvent/viscosity decreasing agent
Resveratrol |
antioxidant/skin protectant
Ferulic Acid |
antioxidant/preservative

(Ingredients of Low Concern)–Color coding according to EWG


Independent Assessment

All of the ingredients in this formulation are safe at current use and concentrations. I greatly appreciate the simplicity of this formulation.

Please note that the propanediol used in this formulation may be petroleum-derived as they do not state otherwise. If you are trying to avoid petroleum-derived products, you may want to purchase this with caution.

Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% Review

This product and we still need more time to get to know each other. Review coming soon.

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Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane

Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane

by | 26 Jul, 2018 | Skin Care

[READ TIME: 3 MIN]

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What They Have to Say

This water-free solution contains a 2% concentration of an advanced retinoid active complex called Granactive Retinoid that has been shown to offer better results against multiple signs of aging than retinol without any of the irritation and drawbacks common with retinol. Granactive Retinoid, an active technology from Grant Industries, is a solubilized system of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, a highly-advanced form of retinoid which is, in fact, a non-prescription ester of all-trans direct retinoic acid that offers a multi-fold better effect against signs of aging than retinol, retinyl palmitate and nearly all other forms of non-prescription retinoid.

The Ordinary.

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Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane Ingredient Overview

This product is Water-Free, Fragrance-Free, Cruelty-Free, and Vegan.
$
AMT
$ / Oz
$9.60 1 oz $9.60
EWG RATING*
pH
EWG Skindeep Database - 3 N/A
Ingredients
Squalane |
skin conditioning agent
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate |
emollient
Bisabolol |
skin conditioning agent
Dimethyl Isosorbide |
viscosity decreasing agent
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate |
skin conditioning agent
Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract |
skin conditioning agent
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil |
skin conditioning agent

(Ingredients of Low Concern) (Ingredients of High Concern)–Color coding according to EWG


Independent Assessment

All of the ingredients in this formulation are safe at current use and concentration. Now time for a quick blurb on Retinoids.

Retinoids are a bit of a hot topic in the skincare industry for being highly effective but also potentially highly mutagenic (retinyl acetate). Broken into three groups–retinol, retinoic acid and retinyl acetate (most common being retinyl palmitate)–our skin uses retinoic acid to trigger cell regeneration, but it can metabolize retinol and retinyl acetate to retinoic acid. There is a ton of research on the effects of retinol, retinyl acetate and retinoic acid (Tretinoin). However, we have reached the age of retinoic acid esters. They’re like a very mild-mannered first cousin, promising little to no irritation. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is the newest member of the retinoic acid ester group and very little research has been done on the long-term effects. So, as usual, USE SPF with any ingredient that increases cell turnover.

Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane Review

We haven’t had enough time to properly test this product. Review coming soon.

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Mandelic Acid 10% and Hyaluronic Acid

Mandelic Acid 10% and Hyaluronic Acid

by | 25 Jul, 2018 | Skin Care

[READ TIME: 2 MIN]

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What They Have to Say

Mandelic Acid 10% + HA offers superficial dermal peeling that is gentler than other alpha hydroxy acids. The molecular weight of mandelic acid is 152.1 daltons which is larger than other alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic acid is 76.0 daltons, for example). This larger size allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly which in turn makes it very gentle and suitable for all skin types including the most sensitive skin. You don’t need a concentration of more than 10%, because then you would simply be achieving an indirect peeling strength that is more easily offered through lower percentages of glycolic acid.

The Ordinary.

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Mandelic Acid 10% and Hyaluronic Acid Ingredient Overview

This product is Fragrance-Free, Vegan, Gluten-Free, and Cruelty-Free.
$
AMT
$ / Oz
$6.79 1 oz $6.79
EWG RATING*
pH
EWG Skin Deep Database - 2 3.5–3.7
Ingredients
Propanediol |
viscosity decreasing agent
Aqua |
solvent
Mandelic Acid |
antimicrobial
Glycerin |
humectant
Dimethyl Isosorbide |
viscosity decreasing agent
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer |
humectant
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Exctract |
anti-inflammatory
Pentylene Glycol |
skin conditioning agent
Polysorbate 20 |
emulsifier
Sodium Hydroxide |
pH adjuster
Ethylhexylglycerin |
skin conditioning agent/preservative
1,2-Hexanediol |
skin conditioning agent
Caprylyl Glycol
skin conditioning agent

(Ingredients of Low Concern) (Ingredients of Moderate Concern)–Color coding according to EWG


Independent Assessment

All of the ingredients used in this formulation are safe at their current use and concentration.

The only things that jump out to me in this formulation are Propanediol and 1,2-Hexanediol. Both could potentially be petroleum-based ingredients. If you are anti-petroleum-based ingredients (even safe ones with low risk of contamination like these two), then purchase with discretion.

Mandelic Acid 10% + HA Review

We haven’t had enough time to test this properly. Review coming soon.

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COMMENT BELOW!
Marine Hyaluronics

Marine Hyaluronics

by | 24 Jul, 2018 | Skin Care

[READ TIME: 5 MIN]

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What They Have to Say

Marine Hyaluronics brings together lightweight marine-derived water reservoirs that attract and hold water like hyaluronic acid (HA) but are lighter than HA in texture and feel. The formula contains exopolysaccharides from skin-friendly marine bacteria, Hawaiian red algae, Glycoproteins from Antarctic marine sources, micro-filtered blue-green algae and several health-supporting amino acids. All marine derivatives in Marine Hyaluronics are sourced sustainably. The total concentration of active ingredients in this formula is 23%.

The Ordinary.

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Marine Hyaluronics Ingredient Overview

This product is Fragrance-Free, Cruelty-Free, and Vegan.
$
AMT
$ / Oz
$6.80 1 oz $6.80
EWG RATING*
pH
EWG Skindeep Database - 3 4–5
Ingredients
Aqua |
solvent
Glycerin |
humectant
Algae Extract |
humectant
Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides |
humectant
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract |
humectant
Ahnfeltia Concinna (Algae) Extract |
skin protectant
Arginine |
skin conditioning agent
Glycine |
skin conditioning agent
Alanine |
skin conditioning agent
Serine |
skin conditioning agent
Valine |
skin conditioning agent
Isoleucine |
skin conditioning agent
Proline |
skin conditioning agent
Threonine |
skin conditioning agent
Histidine |
skin conditioning agent
Phenylalanine |
skin conditioning agent
Aspartic Acid |
skin conditioning agent
PCA |
humectant
Sodium PCA |
humectant
Sodium Lactate |
Humectant
Salicylic Acid |
antiacne agent/skin conditioning agent
Citric Acid  |
pH adjuster
Propanediol |
viscosity decreasing agent
Dimethyl Isosorbide |
viscosity decreasing agent
Ethoxydiglycol |
viscosity decreasing agent
Polysorbate 20 |
emulsifier
Potassium Sorbate |
preservative
Sodium Salicylate |
preservative
Sodium Benzoate |
preservative
Hexylene Glycol |
skin conditioning agent
1,2-Hexanediol |
skin conditioning agent
Phenoxyethanol |
preservative
Caprylyl Glycol |
skin conditioning agent

(Ingredients of Low Concern) (Ingredients of Moderate Concern)–Color coding according to EWG


Independent Assessment

All of the ingredients used in this formulation are safe at current use and concentrations.

  1. PCA and Sodium PCA are only of any concern when formulated with nitrosating agents (none are present). Some common ones are:
    • 3-diol
    • Ammonium Laureth (or Lauryl) Sulfate
    • DEA (Diethanolamine), MEA (Monoethanolamine), and TEA (Triethanolamine)
    • Formaldehyde (All Aldehydes)
    • Hydrolyzed Animal Protein
    • Imidazolidinyl Urea
    • Sodium Lauryl (or Laureth) Sulfate
    • Quaternium-7, 15, 31, 60, etc
  2. Phenoxyethanol should be used at ≤ 1% concentration. It has data gaps but the biggest concern is whether or not it is used in a preservative system with methyldibromo glutaronitrile (which seems to be the allergen in the system). However, that is not listed here so we can only assume it was not used.
  3. Salicylic Acid is safe and will not greatly increase skin absorption unless formulated with the following ingredients:
    • vitamin A
    • ammoniated mercury
    • triamcinolone acetonide
  4. The glycols used in this formulation are not petroleum-derived. So… bonus for that one.

Marine Hyaluronics Review

As far as pure hyaluronic acids (or hyaluronic-type serums) go, the Marine Hyaluronics from The Ordinary has been my favorite as far as texture and overall product experience.

Now, this may not be for everyone. If you want a product that masks the natural (and sometimes not entirely pleasant) smell of the product, this one isn’t for you. On that note, I love that this is fragrance-free. I don’t mind the natural smell of the product. It is a bit nutty and smells a little of algae (the source of the HA). If you’ve ever had a cheesy rice puff snack called Pirates Booty, that’s what this product smells like.

Now to the good stuff; texture and consistency. The texture is very light and the consistency is very thin and “watery”.  It’s not nearly as thick as a more “traditional” hyaluronic acid (HA). The Ordinary even states that if you prefer a thicker or “viscous” consistency to go with their HA 2% + B5.

I personally have really enjoyed the application experience of this product. It absorbs quickly. At first use, it is a bit alarming because the product has a bit of a tightening effect on the skin. I’ve found that it works (and feels) best if you pat in roughly 8 drops while your toner is still damp and immediately follow with your water-based serum(s).

Another added bonus, because the hyaluronic acid comes from plants, there is no concern that the HA was sourced from rooster comb! I think Marine Hyaluronics has gained the title of my favorite product from Deciem overall, not just from their brand The Ordinary.

 

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The London Mask™: Anti-Pollution Purifying Mask

The London Mask™: Anti-Pollution Purifying Mask

by | 10 Jul, 2018 | Clean Beauty Compendium

[READ TIME: 2 MIN]

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What They Have to Say

Let us introduce you to The London Mask from Twelve Beauty, a highly moisturising organic rice, purified kaolin and natural squalane-based anti-pollution mask, enriched with comfrey derivates, mallow, and the purest vitamin B5.

Pedro’s instincts told him that he had to create an authentic, handcrafted remedy that would help eliminate toxins and repair skin damage due to air pollution. At the same time, this organic mask soothes and softens even the most stressed skin providing a unique radiant tone.

Twelve Beauty

The London Mask™: Anti-Pollution Purifying Mask Ingredient Overview

This product is 100% naturally-derived and Cruelty-Free.
$
AMT
$ / Oz
86£ ($100.54) 1.7 oz $59.14
EWG RATING*
pH
EWG Skindeep Database - 3 #

*Accounts for Parfum as an “essential oil blend” because it is a natural fragrance rather than a synthetic one.

Ingredients
Aqua |
solvent
Dicaprylyl Carbonate |
solvent/conditioning agent
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch* |
absorbent
Kaolin |
absorbent/anti-caking agent
Zinc Oxide |
opacifying agent
Cetearyl Alcohol |
emulsion stabilizer
Glycerin* |
humectant/skin conditioning agent
Squalane |
skin conditioning agent
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) |
skin conditioning agent
Glyceryl Stearate |
emulsifying agent/surfactant
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate |
surfactant/emulsifying agent
Glyceryl Laurate |
surfactant/emulsifying agent/emollient/skin conditioning agent
Mallow Sylvestris Flower Extract* |
skin conditioning agent
Allantoin |
skin protectant/skin conditioning agent
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* |
moisturizer/skin conditioning agent
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)* |
antioxidant
Xanthan Gum |
emulsion stabilizer
Benzyl Alcohol |
fragrancing agent
Dehydroacetic Acid |
preservative
Parfum* |
natural fragrancing ingredient
Limonene* |
fragrancing agent
Linalool*
fragrancing agent

* Certified Organic
(Ingredients of Low Concern) (Ingredients of Moderate Concern) (Ingredients of High Concern)–Color coding according to EWG


Independent Assessment

All of the ingredients used in this formula are safe at current use and concentrations. Make sure you patch test this product as it has several potentially irritating ingredients.

Things to note about some of these ingredients:

  1. Dicaprylyl Carbonate has shown very slight potential for skin irritation.
  2. Squalane may feed and/or aggravate fungal acne.
  3. Glyceryl Laurate has shown moderate potential for skin irritation (in concentrations ≥ 20%)
  4. Benzyl Alcohol may be irritating to the skin and eye area.
  5. Parfum – the fragrance in this product is natural and not of high concern. However, all fragrancing ingredients have a potential for irritation. This also goes for the Limonene and Linalool included in the formulation.

The London Mask™: Anti-Pollution Purifying Mask Review

Coming soon.

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Rejuvenation Creme

Rejuvenation Creme

by | 5 Jul, 2018 | Skin Care

[READ TIME: 4 MIN]

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What They Have to Say

Formulated using skin plumping Hyaluronic Acid, firming Peptides and Lipids that restore collagen and improve elasticity. This nourishing, light-weight crème is carefully hand-crafted using the highest quality organic botanicals such as Organic Orange Water, Organic Sunflower Oil, and Organic Shea Butter. Antioxidants such as Red and Brown Algae help as an anti-inflammatory and increase skin resiliency. Feel your skin transform while indulging in the refreshing aroma of cooling cucumber extract that helps soothe and calm sensitive skin.

Glycelene

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Rejuvenation Creme Ingredient Overview

This product is Cruelty-Free, Fragrance-Free, and Vegan.
$
AMT
$ / Oz.
$95.00 1.7 oz $55.88
EWG RATING
pH
EWG score 1 #
Ingredients
Orange Waterº |
skin conditioning agent
Shea Butterº |
skin conditioning agent
Sunflower Seed Oilº |
skin conditioning agent
Cetearyl Olivate |
hair conditioning agent
Sorbitan Olivate |
emulsifying agent
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides |
skin conditioning agent
Glycerin (Vegetable)º |
skin conditioning agent/humectant
Squalane |
skin conditioning agent
Caprooyl-Tetrapeptide-3 |
skin restoring agent
Hyaluronic Acid |
skin conditioning agent/humectant
Red Algae Extract |
skin conditioning agent
Brown Algae Extract |
skin conditioning agent/antioxidant
Canadian Willowherb Leaf/Root/Stem Extract | antioxidant
Cucumber Extract |
skin conditioning agent
Ricebran Oil |
skin conditioning agent/moisturizer
Rosemary Extract |
antioxidant
Sunflower Seed Extract |
skin conditioning agent/sunscreen agent
Tocopherol(Vitamin E) |
antioxidant
Xanthan Gum |
emulsion stabilizer/film former/viscosity-increasing agent
Lecithin |
skin conditioning agent/emulsifier
Sorbitol |
film former
Dextran |
humectant
Cetyl Palmitate |
skin conditioning agent
Sorbitan Palmitate |
emulsifying agent
Ethylhexyl Glycerin |
preservative
Phenoxyethanol
preservative

º Certified Organic

(Ingredients of Low Concern) (Ingredients of Moderate Concern) — Color coding according to EWG 


Independent Assessment

According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review studies, all of the ingredients used in this formulation are safe at current use concentrations and have very low to no potential for irritation.

Some things to keep in mind about these ingredients:

  1. Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, and Sorbitan Olivate can feed and aggravate fungal acne.
  2. Phenoxyethanol should be used at ≤ 1% concentration. It has data gaps but the biggest concern is whether or not it is used in a preservative system with methyldibromo glutaronitrile (which seems to be the allergen in the system). However, that is not listed here so we can only assume it was not used.

Rejuvenation Creme Review

Rejuvenation Creme is an interesting moisturizer. It has a very unique texture. It’s quite thick and it takes a bit of warming up to absorb well into the skin. However, it’s not a great stand alone for dry skin (at least, not mine). It felt like it sat on my skin and did a great job at forming a moisture barrier, but you really have to pile on the hydrating products underneath this.

The site and product label both say for best results to use with the Beauty Serum and Supplement Facial Oil. I was only using the Beauty Serum with the Rejuvenation Creme and you absolutely need to use an oil under this. Oily and Oily/Combo skin might not need to layer an oil under this in the summer, but definitely in drier colder months. Normal and Combo/Dry skin need to use an oil year-round.

The Rejuvenation Creme is fragrance-free so it smells like the cucumber extract used in the formula, making it very calming (unless you hate cucumber).

Overall, the Rejuvenation Creme is a solid 50/50. I think if it was more in the price range of $50 to $75, I would be more willing to repurchase it.

HAVE YOU USED GLYCELENE PRODUCTS? WHICH ONE IS YOUR FAVORITE?
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